
“Figure and Drapery in a Landscape”, circa 1934
America makes its choices, Dali wrote in his 1942 autobiography, “with all the unfathomable and elementary force of her unique and intact biology”.
“She knows, as does no one else, what she lacks, what she does not have. And all that America ‘did not have’ on the spiritual plane, I was going to bring her … precisely the horror of my rotten donkeys from Spain, of the spectral aspect of the Christs of El Greco, of the whirling of the fiery sunflowers of Van Gogh, of the airy quality of Chanel’s decolletes, of the oddness of fur cups, of the metaphysics of the surrealist mannequins of Paris, of the apotheosis of the symphonic and Wagnerian architecture of Gaudi, of Rome, Toledo and Mediterranean Catholicism.”
In 1934, following his row with the other surrealists, his expulsion from his father’s home, his marriage to Gala, and his solo London show, Dali had been talking about the United States with Alfred H Barr Jr, the director of New York’s Museum of Modern Art, who he met at the Vicomte de Noailles’ place in Paris.
“His information on the subject of modern art was enormous. By contrast with our European directors of modern museums, most of whom still had not heard of Picasso, Alfred Barr’s erudition verged on the monstrous. Mrs Barr, who spoke French, prophesied that I would have a dazzling future in America, and encouraged me to go there.”
He and Gala dearly wanted to go, but had no money. Fortunately, Rene Crevel had introduced them to another wealthy American, Caresse Crosby, who’d bought Le Moulin du Soleil in the Forest of Ermenonville, northeast of Paris in Oise.
She and Dali plotted to build the 15-metre oven there that he needed to bake his giant loaf of bread with which to befuddle the masses.
Below is a Google Earth view of the forest itself.
A few years later, in June 1940, 800 hectares of trees were destroyed in a fire, and in 1974, in about this spot, Turkish Airlines Flight 981 crashed here. A memorial recalls the 346 victims.

“Every weekend we went to the Moulin du Soleil,” Dali wrote. “We ate in the horse stable, filled with tiger skins and stuffed parrots.”
Surrealists and society people were drawn to the place knowing “things were happening” there. The phonograph played Cole Porter’s “Night and Day” constantly and Dali glimpsed for the first time The New Yorker and Town & Country, lapping up the images of America.
“I want to go to America, I want to go to America … This was assuming the form of a childish caprice. Gala would console me: as soon as we could scrape together enough money we would go!”
Dali claimed to have realised that nothing was really stopping him from getting to New York when one day he lashed out at a “repugnant” legless blind man rolling along Boulevard Edgar-Quinet on a wheeled cart. He kicked the cart and sent it scurrying, and it dawned on him that he was neither blind, lame nor “plunged in abjection”. So he booked passage on the Champlain.
Possibly it was karma that made his first ocean crossing so horrific. Supposedly with a $500 loan from Picasso, he and Gala set sail on the Champlain in late autumn.
“As soon as I felt myself on the high seas, a great fear of the ‘ocean space’ took hold of me. I had never yet in my life sailed out of sight of land, and the creakings of the ship appeared to me more and more suspect.”
Catastrophe loomed, Dali was sure, so he attended every safety drill strapped into his life jacket, which he kept on even lying on his bunk in their cabin. Gala found him pathetic and hilarious by turns.
Glowering at the ship’s officers “as my executioners”, Salvador downed champagne constantly. Meanwhile Caresse Crosby, also on board, was asking the captain how long a loaf of French bread the galley might manage. The baker came up with a baguette two and a half metres long.
Tipped off by Crosby and keen to meet Dali, reporters boarded the ship when it reached New York at noon on November 14, and he duly produced his loaf — which the newshounds duly ignored. In an even bigger surprise, “They knew stupefying details about my life.”
“They immediately asked me if it was true that I had just painted a portrait of my wife with a pair of fried chops balanced on her shoulder. I answered yes, except that they we’re not fried, but raw.
“Why raw? they immediately asked me. I told them that it was because my wife was raw too.
“But why the chops together with your wife? I answered that I liked my wife, and that I liked chops, and that I saw no reason why I should not paint them together.”
See this post for more about what became the Dalis’ penchant for ocean voyages.
Finally on terra firma, the newlyweds stayed at the St Moritz Hotel on Central Park South, now the Ritz Carlton, on the seventh floor. Their first dinner engagement was with the Duke of Windsor and his wife Wallis Simpson, who will be making more appearances in Dali’s life shortly.

“Javanese Mannequin”, 1934
On his first night in New York Dali had a dream “involving eroticism and lions”. He awoke early in the morning to and could still hear lions roaring, now mingled with the sound of ducks quacking and other animal noises. The waiter who brought breakfast explained that the hotel was right across the road from the Central Park Zoo.
Another lion’s roar — at the Barcelona Zoo — inspired the elongated limbs, heads and rumps that Dali so often painted resting on crutches. He pictured the roar extending out from the animal’s mouth. “I conceived these distortions,” he wrote, “whose prolonged appendix forms represent in my aesthetic system something like the ‘cavernous roarings of form’.”
At right, “Manhattan Skyline”, sometimes identified as “La Lune”, done years later.
Dali commemorated their American debut with an elegy to the Big Apple’s phallic towers:
“New York, you are an Egypt! But an Egypt turned inside out. For she erected pyramids of slavery to death, and you erect pyramids of democracy with the vertical organ-pipes of your skyscrapers all meeting at the point of infinity of liberty!
“New York, granite sentinel facing Asia, resurrection of the Atlantic dream, Atlantis of the subconscious. New York, the stark folly of whose historic wardrobes gnaws away at the earth around the foundations and swells the inverted cupolas of your thousand new religions.
“What Piranesi invented the ornamental rites of your Roxy Theatre? And what Gustave Moreau apoplectic with Prometheus lighted the venomous colors that flutter at the summit of the Chrysler Building?
“New York, your cathedrals sit knitting stockings in the shadow of gigantic banks, stockings and mittens for the Negro quintuplets who will be born in Virginia, stockings and mittens for the swallows, drunk and drenched with Coca-Cola, who have strayed into the dirty kitchens of the Italian quarter and hang over the edge of tables like black Jewish neckties soaked in the rain and waiting for the snappy, sizzling stroke of the iron of the coming elections to make them edible, crisp as a charred slice of bacon.
“New York, your beheaded mannequins are already asleep, spilling all their ‘perpetual blood’ which flows like the ’surgical fountains of publicity’ within the display windows dazzling with electricity, contaminated with ‘lethargic surrealism’.
“And on Fifth Avenue Harpo Marx has just lighted the fuse that projects from the behinds of a flock of explosive giraffes stuffed with dynamite. They run in all directions, sowing panic and obliging everyone to seek refuge pell-mell within the shops. All the fire alarms of the city have just been turned on, but it is already too late. Boom! Booml Booml Booml
“I salute you, explosive giraffes of New York, and all you forerunners of the irrational — Mack Sennett, Harry Langdon, and you too, unforgettable Buster Keaton, tragic and delirious like my rotten and mystic donkeys, desert roses of Spain!”
What Dali saw himself as bringing to the New World was an “infekzious poizun”, the surrealism he would inject into America’s bloodstream. The Land of the Free was swiftly addicted.
Below, “Gangsterism and Goofy Visions of New York”, an illustration for a series of articles about American life that Dalí wrote for The American Weekly from 1934 to 1935.